{"id":12852,"date":"2017-07-03T12:34:50","date_gmt":"2017-07-03T09:34:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/?p=12852"},"modified":"2019-05-24T11:54:07","modified_gmt":"2019-05-24T08:54:07","slug":"o-vizita-la-cernobil","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/o-vizita-la-cernobil\/","title":{"rendered":"O vizit\u0103 la Cernob\u00eel"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Text \u0219i foto de <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/mihaela.bashque\">Mihaela Dunga.<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Am decis s\u0103 merg la Cernob\u00eel c\u00e2nd so\u021bul meu Nikky mi-a spus c\u0103 este una dintre pu\u0163inele mari dorin\u0163e pe care vrea s\u0103 \u015fi le \u00eendeplineasc\u0103 \u00een via\u0163a asta. Lista lui de mari dorin\u021be e scurt\u0103: iubirea deja o are de la mine, mai e ceva legat de Jamaica \u015fi o biciclet\u0103 nou\u0103, electric\u0103. Imposibil de refuzat, zic eu.<\/p>\n<p>Studiem problema de vreo cinci ani, on &amp; off, da\u2019 niciodat\u0103 nu am reu\u015fit s\u0103 punem banii necesari la un loc s\u0103 ne \u0219i ducem.<\/p>\n<p>Ne-am asigurat c\u0103 nu murim de la radia\u0163ii, am reluat discu\u0163ia cu \u201evrem sau nu copii\u201d \u015fi am c\u0103zut de acord c\u0103 nu, am c\u0103zut de acord inclusiv cu faptul c\u0103, dac\u0103 dup\u0103 vizita \u00een zona ne cresc solzi pe spinare sau \u00eenc\u0103 o prelungire a corpului o s\u0103 ne iubim la fel de mult (ba chiar mai mult dac\u0103 i-ar fi crescut lui \u00eenc\u0103 un&#8230; orice), a\u015fa c\u0103 anul \u0103sta a fost decizional: \u201eFemeie, ori mergem anul \u0103sta, \u00eenainte s\u0103 mai d\u0103r\u00e2me \u0103ia vreun turn de r\u0103cire de care eram profund ata\u015fat, ori divor\u0163\u0103m!\u201d Csf, ncsf!<\/p>\n<p>El s-a ocupat de contactarea tour operatorului, eu de biletele de avion \u015fi bookingul de cazare.<br \/>\nCei \u00eemp\u0103timi\u0163i de \u201euniversul\u201d creat de cartea \u201ePicnic la marginea drumului\u201d &#8211; Arkadi \u015fi Boris Strugatki, filmul \u201eC\u0103l\u0103uza\u201d \u2013 regia Andrei Tarkovski, seria de jocuri video \u201eS.T.A.L.K.E.R.\u201d: \u201eShadow of Chernobyl\u201d, \u201eClear Sky\u201d \u015fi \u201eCall of Pripyat\u201d, vor \u00een\u0163elege mai bine dorin\u0163a lui de a vizita Zona de excluziune din jurul Centralei Atomoelectrice de la Cernob\u00eel \u015fi vor \u015fti c\u0103 o singur\u0103 zi de tur nu este suficient\u0103, de aceea am luat un tur de dou\u0103 zile.<\/p>\n<p>Pentru cei care nu \u015ftiu despre ce este vorba, \u00een noaptea de vineri spre s\u00e2mb\u0103t\u0103 26 aprilie 1986, la ora 01:23:58, reactorul #4 al centralei a suferit o explozie catastrofal\u0103 a cazanelor sub presiune de abur din componen\u021ba acestuia, care a declan\u0219at un incendiu, o serie de explozii adi\u021bionale \u0219i fluidizare nuclear\u0103. Accidentul de la Cernob\u00eel a degajat \u00eentre cinci \u0219i zece ori mai mult material radioactiv dec\u00e2t cel de la Fukushima (Japonia), de mai multe ori cantitatea de radia\u021bii emise de bombele de la Hiroshima \u0219i Nagasaki, dar mai pu\u021bin de 1% dec\u00e2t au aruncat \u00een atmosfer\u0103 testele nucleare de suprafa\u021b\u0103 ale armelor nucleare, p\u00e2n\u0103 la interzicerea efectu\u0103rii acestora \u00een atmosfer\u0103.<\/p>\n<p><strong><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12853\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/1.png?resize=500%2C474\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"474\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/1.png?w=500&amp;ssl=1 500w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/1.png?resize=150%2C142&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/1.png?resize=300%2C284&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>Photo credit: web. Reactorul 4 dup\u0103 explozie.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Pe 23 iunie 2017, am luat avionul spre Kiev, Ucraina, am dormit o noapte acolo \u015fi a doua zi, la 07:30 ne-am \u00eent\u00e2lnit cu grupul cu care urma s\u0103 vizit\u0103m zona. Am apelat la tour operatorul care se cheam\u0103 exact a\u015fa: Chernobyl Tour \u015fi e de g\u0103sit <a href=\"https:\/\/chernobyl-tour.com\/english\/\">aici<\/a>. Site-ul lor este prietenos, cu foarte multe informa\u0163ii, sunt profesioni\u015fti \u015fi experimenta\u0163i \u00een tot ceea ce \u00eenseamn\u0103 turismul \u00een zon\u0103: de la suveniruri p\u00e2n\u0103 la tururi personalizate, dedicate pentru studii, jurnalism, etc, cu ghizi vorbitori de ucrainian\u0103, rus\u0103, englez\u0103, dup\u0103 gustul fiec\u0103ruia.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12854\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/2.png?resize=700%2C394\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/2.png?w=768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/2.png?resize=150%2C84&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/2.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>Poza cu maimu\u0163ele: Andrii, eu, Nikky, Cosmo, Serghei.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Am ajuns pe m\u00e2na lui Andrii Kryshtal, ghidul cel mai bun pe care \u00eel puteam primi \u015fi a \u015foferului Serghei (cum altfel?), genul de \u015fofer\/bodyguard extrem de curat \u015fi politicos de\u015fi engleza lui era limitat\u0103. \u00cen grupul alocat lui Andrii au mai fost un australian, doi americani, tat\u0103 \u015fi fiu, un norvegian \u015fi partenera lui de origine asiatic\u0103 \u015fi o ucrainianc\u0103, pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 noi trei rom\u00e2ni: eu, Nikky \u015fi prietenul nostru Cosmo. A\u015fadar un grup de 11 oameni \u00een total, \u00eentr-un microbus de 19 locuri dotat cu aer condi\u0163ionat, televizor cu sistem audio \u015fi videoplayer inclus, o gr\u0103mad\u0103 de spa\u0163iu pentru bagaje \u015fi voie bun\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>Drumul din Kiev p\u00e2n\u0103 la accesul \u00een zona de excluziune este de aproximativ dou\u0103 ore, incluz\u00e2nd o oprire de 30 de minute pentru ultime cump\u0103r\u0103turi \u015fi o vizit\u0103 serioas\u0103 la toaleta benzin\u0103riei. Pentru c\u0103 odat\u0103 trecut de primul punct de control de la intrarea \u00een Zon\u0103 nu prea e acces la toalete decente.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12855\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/3.png?resize=700%2C309\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"309\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/3.png?w=768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/3.png?resize=150%2C66&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/3.png?resize=300%2C132&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>Benzin\u0103ria unde am f\u0103cut ultimul pipi decent din ziua 1. (Not\u0103 Lorena: cum arat\u0103 un pipi indecent?)<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Dup\u0103 prima zi de tur, am m\u00e2ncat (dac\u0103 dori\u0163i cina aici, \u015fi o recomand, se pl\u0103te\u015fte un extra de 5-10 euro sau dolari) \u015fi dormit \u00een \u201eHotel Desyatka\u201d amenajat fix pentru scop turistic, \u00een ora\u015ful abandonat Cernob\u00eel.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12856\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/4.png?resize=512%2C384\" alt=\"\" width=\"512\" height=\"384\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/4.png?w=512&amp;ssl=1 512w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/4.png?resize=150%2C113&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/4.png?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A doua zi de tur \u00eencepe cu un mic dejun copios, inclus \u00een cost. La pr\u00e2nz (pl\u0103tit\u0103 extra), ni se ofer\u0103 o mas\u0103 la cantina centralei, loc \u00een care m\u0103n\u00e2nc\u0103 \u015fi muncitorii ce \u00eenc\u0103 mai sunt acolo.<\/p>\n<p>Sfaturi de urmat dac\u0103 v\u0103 bate g\u00e2ndul s\u0103 vizita\u0163i zona:<br \/>\n&#8211; respecta\u0163i \u00eentocmai ceea ce vi se recomand\u0103 pe site sau \u00een e-mailul pe care operatorul vi-l trimite de \u00eendat\u0103 ce \u00eel contacta\u0163i. Adic\u0103: purta\u0163i haine care acoper\u0103 c\u00e2t mai mult pielea \u2013 pantaloni lungi, bluze sau c\u0103m\u0103\u015fi cu m\u00e2neci lungi, pune\u0163i o \u015fapc\u0103\/basma\/p\u0103l\u0103rie pe cap \u015fi neap\u0103rat \u00eenc\u0103l\u0163\u0103minte ultra comod\u0103, dar \u00eenchis\u0103 gen basche\u0163i\/adida\u015fi c\u00e2t mai compac\u0163i, recomandabil bocanci. Lua\u0163i cu voi pelerine de ploaie (noi am prins o ploaie serioas\u0103 timp de dou\u0103 ore \u00een prima zi de tur \u015fi pelerinele au fost providen\u0163iale);<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; nu ie\u015fi\u0163i din cuv\u00e2ntul ghidului alocat, urma\u0163i traseele lui, nu v\u0103 \u00eendep\u0103rta\u0163i de grup, nu v\u0103 aventura\u0163i singuri \u00een locuri ce vi se par interesante, ave\u0163i grij\u0103 pe unde \u015fi pe ce c\u0103lca\u0163i, \u0163ine\u0163i ochii deschi\u015fi \u015fi aten\u0163ia vie;<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; lua\u0163i cu voi snackuri mici dar energizante \u015fi ap\u0103 mult\u0103, mai ales dac\u0103 face\u0163i turul vara;<br \/>\ndac\u0103 ghidul v\u0103 spune s\u0103 face\u0163i lini\u015fte \u00een anumite locuri, face\u0163i lini\u015fte! \u015etie el de ce! Asta \u00eenseamn\u0103 c\u0103, de\u015fi necesit\u0103 un pic de aten\u0163ie, pute\u0163i evita zonele cu sticl\u0103 spart\u0103 care scr\u00e2\u015fne\u015fte \u015fi se sparge cu zgomot sub greutatea personal\u0103 sau p\u0103r\u0163i metalice din diverse obiecte de mobilier ce flambeaz\u0103 sub voi \u015fi revin la forma ini\u0163ial\u0103 cu zgomot;<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; c\u00e2nd urca\u0163i \u00een cl\u0103diri, pe sc\u0103ri nu t\u00e2r\u00e2\u0163i picioarele prin praful de pe jos, cei care urc\u0103 \u00een spatele vostru \u00eel inhaleaz\u0103 \u015fi asta nu e tocmai indicat;<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; be\u0163i \u015fi m\u00e2nca\u0163i doar \u00een mijlocul de transport ce v-a dus \u00een zon\u0103 sau \u00een interiorul cl\u0103dirilor. Sau \u015fi mai bine, \u00eentreba\u0163i ghidul unde pute\u0163i face asta;<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; pentru fum\u0103tori: sunt foarte pu\u0163ine locuri \u00een zon\u0103, unde ave\u0163i permisiunea s\u0103 fuma\u0163i, a\u015fa c\u0103 preg\u0103ti\u0163i-v\u0103 psihic pentru a rezista f\u0103r\u0103 tutun mai multe ore. Proceda\u0163i la fel ca \u015fi cu m\u00e2ncarea \u015fi b\u0103utura: \u00eentreba\u0163i ghidul unde ave\u0163i voie s\u0103 aprinde\u0163i \u0163igara! Din experien\u0163\u0103 proprie v\u0103 spun: nu ve\u0163i prea sim\u0163i nevoia s\u0103 o face\u0163i, turul este extrem de interesant \u015fi informa\u0163iile multe, nu ve\u0163i avea timp s\u0103 v\u0103 g\u00e2ndi\u0163i la viciul vostru!<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; tot ce crede\u0163i c\u0103 ave\u0163i nevoie pentru confortul personal, s\u0103 v\u0103 fie la \u00eendem\u00e2n\u0103: \u015ferve\u0163ele umede sau\/\u015fi uscate, ap\u0103, snackuri, pelerina de ploaie, ochelarii de soare, aparatul foto sau telefonul. Recomand o borset\u0103 sau un mic ghiozdan pe care s\u0103 \u00eel \u0163ine\u0163i aproape \u00een microbuz;<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; bagajul de c\u0103l\u0103torie s\u0103 fie minim, pentru c\u0103 la tururi de mai mult de o zi ve\u0163i purta bagajele cu voi (la mijlocul zilei unu de tur am trecut pe la hotelul din Cernob\u00eel unde am fi putut s\u0103 l\u0103s\u0103m bagajele mari \u00een camer\u0103, dar am decis s\u0103 nu o facem \u00eentruc\u00e2t noi chiar am avut bagaj minimal);<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; lua\u0163i cu voi haine \u015fi \u00eenc\u0103l\u0163\u0103ri dedicate pentru vizitat zona \u015fi altele de c\u0103l\u0103torie. Ve\u0163i vrea s\u0103 izola\u0163i hainele folosite \u00een zon\u0103 de cele de zi cu zi p\u00e2n\u0103 ve\u0163i reu\u015fi s\u0103 le sp\u0103la\u0163i;<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; nu v\u0103 a\u015ftepta\u0163i ca mesele luate \u00een zon\u0103 s\u0103 fie cu caviar \u015fi fois gras, sunt mese simple, muncitore\u015fti, dar copioase, s\u0103n\u0103toase. La fel, nu v\u0103 a\u015ftepta\u0163i ca \u00een hotelul din Cernob\u00eel s\u0103 fie lux. Nu este. Du\u015furile sunt la comun, camerele sunt confortabile dar nu luxoase, \u00eens\u0103 totul este curat \u015fi personalul, chiar dac\u0103 nu \u015ftie o boab\u0103 de englez\u0103, este amabil, prietenos chiar;<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; nu pune\u0163i m\u00e2na pe animalele din zon\u0103, oric\u00e2t de dr\u0103g\u0103la\u015fe sunt sau oric\u00e2t de tenta\u0163i a\u0163i putea fi;<br \/>\nrevin la sfatul al doilea: face\u0163i \u00eentocmai cum v\u0103 spune ghidul pentru a fi \u00een siguran\u0163\u0103!<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; \u0163ine\u0163i pa\u015faportul aproape!<\/p>\n<p>Zona de excluziune e compus\u0103, practic, din 2 zone: cea de 30 de km ce include \u015fi ora\u015ful Cernob\u00eel \u015fi multe alte localit\u0103\u0163i acum abandonate, \u015fi cea de-a dou\u0103 zon\u0103, de 10 km, ce include ora\u015ful-fantom\u0103 Pripyat, ambele av\u00e2nd ca punct central reactoarele.<\/p>\n<p>La accesul \u00een fiecare zon\u0103 \u015fi mai apoi \u015fi \u00een ora\u015ful-fantom\u0103 Pripyat exist\u0103 puncte de control, dar numai la accesul \u00een zona de 30 de km se solicit\u0103 pa\u015faportul, accesul fiind absolut interzis f\u0103r\u0103 acest document, dac\u0103 e\u015fti cet\u0103\u0163ean de alt\u0103 na\u0163ie dec\u00e2t ucrainian\u0103.<br \/>\nC\u00e2nd Mama Rusia a decis s\u0103 deschid\u0103 o nou\u0103 central\u0103 nuclear\u0103 \u00een apropiere de Kiev, cel mai apropiat ora\u015f de locul ales pentru construc\u0163ie era Cernob\u00eel, de aceea centrala \u00eei poart\u0103 numele, de\u015fi acum cel mai apropiat ora\u015f este Pripyatul, construit pe r\u00e2ul cu acela\u015fi nume.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12857\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/5.png?resize=700%2C394\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/5.png?w=768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/5.png?resize=150%2C84&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/5.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>Cernob\u00eel \u015fi c\u00e2inele lui.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Pripyat este unul din multele a\u015fa zise \u201eatomograde\u201d ce serveau at\u00e2t pentru propaganda ruseasc\u0103 dezvoltat\u0103 \u00een jurul fenomenului energiei nucleare, dar mai mult ca zone de locuit pentru muncitorii de la centrale \u015fi familiile lor, venite de pe tot teritoriul vechii Rusii. Spre deosebire de marea majoritate a popula\u0163iei urbane din Rusia acelor ani, aceste \u201eatomograde\u201d aveau energie electric\u0103 (doh!) \u015fi facilit\u0103\u0163i de care al\u0163ii nu beneficiau: alimente \u015fi articole de uz imediat pe care, cei ce au mai apucat \u201eEpoca de Aur\u201d inclusiv \u00een Rom\u00e2nia, \u00ee\u015fi amintesc c\u0103 nu se g\u0103seau dec\u00e2t foarte greu, spre deloc.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12858\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/6.png?resize=700%2C469\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"469\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/6.png?w=819&amp;ssl=1 819w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/6.png?resize=150%2C101&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/6.png?resize=300%2C201&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/6.png?resize=768%2C515&amp;ssl=1 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>Primul cet\u0103\u0163ean al Pripyatului, \u00eent\u00e2lnit de noi.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>La momentul accidentului de la ChNPP (Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant), \u00een Pripyat locuiau aproape 50.000 de oameni care, a doua zi dup\u0103 explozie \u015fi dup\u0103 ce Mama Rusia a admis c\u0103 acolo ceva \u201epute\u201d, au fost evacua\u0163i \u00een aproximativ 3 ore folosindu-se toate c\u0103ile de acces posibile din ora\u015f.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12859\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/7.png?resize=700%2C394\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/7.png?w=768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/7.png?resize=150%2C84&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/7.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>O imagine a Pripyatului, azi.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>\u201eLichidatorii\u201d, cu un num\u0103r foarte aproximativ de 700.000 (diverse site-uri dau informa\u0163ii controversate despre num\u0103rul acestora, eu v\u0103 spun ce am aflat de la ghid), au fost cei care au decontaminat zona, at\u00e2t c\u00e2t s-a putut. Mul\u0163i dintre ei au murit deja, dar num\u0103rul victimelor nu se \u015ftie \u015fi nici nu se va \u015fti vreodat\u0103 cu exactitate pentru c\u0103, evident, s-a interzis specificarea \u00een fi\u015fele medicale ale celor implica\u0163i, a cauzei bolilor ca fiind radia\u0163ia primit\u0103 \u00een timpul lucrului la decontaminare.<br \/>\nSigur c\u0103 zona nu este nici acum cur\u0103\u0163at\u0103 definitiv de radia\u0163ii \u015fi nici nu va fi cur\u00e2nd. Poate \u201eplantate\u201d \u00een scopuri turistice sau r\u0103mase pur \u015fi simplu de la dezastru acolo, exist\u0103 locuri sau obiecte \u201efierbin\u0163i\u201d \u00een zon\u0103. Nu le atinge\u0163i \u015fi face\u0163i ce spune ghidul: nu c\u0103lca\u0163i pe mu\u015fchiul crescut pe jos, nu sta\u0163i deasupra cr\u0103p\u0103turilor din beton, evita\u0163i zonele cu n\u0103mol, nu atinge\u0163i mai nimic.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12860\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/8.png?resize=700%2C394\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/8.png?w=768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/8.png?resize=150%2C84&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/8.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>Un obiect \u201efierbinte\u201d. Valoarea normal\u0103 a radia\u0163iei acceptate \u00een Ucraina este de 0,30 \u03bcSv (microsieverts).<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Medicii care au fost du\u015fi \u00een zon\u0103 ajunseser\u0103 s\u0103 spun\u0103 c\u0103 singurul medicament care func\u0163ioneaz\u0103 acolo e vodka.<br \/>\nCeea ce este fascinant la Zona de Excluziune este puterea naturii. La 31 de ani de la dezastru, ora\u015ful Pripyat \u015fi \u00eemprejurimile lui arat\u0103 ca o jungl\u0103. Via\u0163a \u00ee\u015fi urmeaz\u0103 cursul \u015fi natura \u00ee\u015fi vede de treab\u0103, copacii cresc, animalele tr\u0103iesc (nu, nu am \u00eent\u00e2lnit mutan\u0163i), dar v\u00e2n\u0103toarea \u015fi pescuitul sunt complet interzise, excep\u0163ie f\u0103c\u00e2nd popula\u0163ia de mistre\u0163i care, o dat\u0103 la aproximativ 2 ani, este \u0163inut\u0103 sub control prin sesiuni de v\u00e2n\u0103toare menite s\u0103 reduc\u0103 popula\u0163ia acestei specii ce migreaz\u0103 pe arii extinse \u015fi prin urmare poate contamina locuri din afara zonei.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12861\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/9.png?resize=432%2C665\" alt=\"\" width=\"432\" height=\"665\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/9.png?w=432&amp;ssl=1 432w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/9.png?resize=97%2C150&amp;ssl=1 97w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/9.png?resize=195%2C300&amp;ssl=1 195w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 432px) 100vw, 432px\" \/><br \/>\n<em>O mutant\u0103 dus\u0103 la \u0219coal\u0103<\/em><\/p>\n<p>\u00cen ora\u015ful Cernob\u00eel este amenajat un muzeu \u00een aer liber, unde se pot vedea pl\u0103cu\u0163ele celor 96 de localit\u0103\u0163i evacuate dup\u0103 accident doar de pe teritoriul Ucrainei, alte 92 fiind cele de pe teritoriul Belarusului, dar \u015fi o \u201epo\u015ft\u0103\u201d ad-hoc creat\u0103, unde fo\u015ftii locuitori ai teritoriului \u00ee\u015fi mai las\u0103 scrisori ca s\u0103 se reg\u0103seasc\u0103 cu vecinii de pe strada unde au stat sau din satul pe care l-au abandonat.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12862\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/10.png?resize=576%2C638\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"638\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/10.png?w=576&amp;ssl=1 576w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/10.png?resize=135%2C150&amp;ssl=1 135w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/10.png?resize=271%2C300&amp;ssl=1 271w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><br \/>\n<em>Indicatoarele cu numele localit\u0103\u0163ilor evacuate din Ucraina, 96 la num\u0103r.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12864\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/11.png?resize=700%2C394\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/11.png?w=768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/11.png?resize=150%2C84&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/11.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>Po\u015fta Zonei de excluziune.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>L\u00e2ng\u0103 sta\u0163ia de pompieri din Cernob\u00eel, \u00een memoria pompierilor care au participat \u00een primele momente de dup\u0103 dezastru la salvarea reactorului 3 de la explozie (acesta fiind avariat de exploziile de la reactorul 4), dar \u015fi a lichidatorilor care au participat ulterior la stingerea reactorului \u015fi la alte opera\u0163iuni de dup\u0103 accident, colegii lor de la sta\u0163ie, au ridicat un monument \u00een memoria acestora. Arti\u015ftii au fost pl\u0103ti\u0163i numai din dona\u0163ii private venite de pe tot teritoriul fostei Rusii, dar \u015fi din afar\u0103.<br \/>\nObiectele pe care le \u0163in statuile sunt de fapt obiecte reale, peste care s-a turnat beton, iar ca \u201efun fact\u201d, \u00een trusa medical\u0103 a statuii medicului, trus\u0103 real\u0103, se g\u0103sesc inclusiv sticlele de vodk\u0103 folosite ca \u201esingurul medicament\u201d ce mai avea efect acolo.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12866\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/12.png?resize=432%2C530\" alt=\"\" width=\"432\" height=\"530\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/12.png?w=432&amp;ssl=1 432w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/12.png?resize=122%2C150&amp;ssl=1 122w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/12.png?resize=245%2C300&amp;ssl=1 245w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 432px) 100vw, 432px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>Monumentul ridicat \u00een memoria \u201eLichidatorilor\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12867\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/13.png?resize=288%2C464\" alt=\"\" width=\"288\" height=\"464\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/13.png?w=288&amp;ssl=1 288w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/13.png?resize=93%2C150&amp;ssl=1 93w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/13.png?resize=186%2C300&amp;ssl=1 186w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 288px) 100vw, 288px\" \/><br \/>\n<em>Vodca-medicament.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Sta\u0163ia Radar Duga este impresionant\u0103. Construit\u0103 ca s\u0103 detecteze orice activitate suspect\u0103 de lansare a unor rachete nucleare de c\u0103tre \u201edu\u015fmanii de clas\u0103\u201d americani, c\u0103ci ei erau principalii inamici ai acelor ani, era numit\u0103 cinic \u201eRussian Woodpecker\u201d din cauza zgomotului ascu\u0163it \u015fi repetitiv ce se auzea \u00een benzile de unde ultra scurte. Cu o lungime de aproximativ 750 de metri \u015fi \u00een\u0103l\u0163imea st\u00e2lpilor de 90m, \u015fi aceast\u0103 minune a av\u00e2ntului sovietic \u00een cursa de \u201eap\u0103rare\u201d a patriei mume, a generat construc\u0163ia unui mic ora\u015f, Cernob\u00eel 2, ora\u015f a\u015fa zis secret, pentru lucr\u0103torii din sta\u0163ie. Accesul strict restric\u0163ionat \u00een zon\u0103 permitea chiar \u015fi familiilor acestor lucr\u0103tori s\u0103 intre doar cu aprob\u0103ri speciale de la partid.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12869\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/14.png?resize=432%2C591\" alt=\"\" width=\"432\" height=\"591\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/14.png?w=432&amp;ssl=1 432w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/14.png?resize=110%2C150&amp;ssl=1 110w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/14.png?resize=219%2C300&amp;ssl=1 219w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 432px) 100vw, 432px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>Radarul Duga-3 din apropiere de ChNPP.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Fabrica Jupiter, creat\u0103 dup\u0103 spusele ghidului nostru Andrii, pentru femeile din Pripyat care nu munceau la reactoare, este vedeta celui de-al treilea joc video din seria \u201eS.T.A.L.K.E.R.\u201d, \u201eCall of Pripyat\u201d \u015fi, oficial, era produc\u0103toare de band\u0103 \u0219i componente electronice pentru aparatele electrocasnice. \u00cen realitate, \u00een Fabrica Jupiter s-au produs \u00een mod secret componente semiconductoare pentru industria militar\u0103. \u00cen laboratoare \u0219i ateliere au fost testate materiale noi \u0219i departamentul de robotic\u0103 a dezvoltat diverse sisteme robotice. Dup\u0103 dezastrul din 1986, spre deosebire de Pripyat, fabrica nu a fost abandonat\u0103 definitiv. Dup\u0103 un timp, o parte din angaja\u021bi s-au \u00eentors la Jupiter, iar fabrica a devenit un laborator radiologic pentru testarea diferitelor tehnici de decontaminare \u0219i dezvoltare a instrumentelor dozimetrice. Fabrica a func\u0163ionat p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een 1996; ast\u0103zi este abandonat\u0103.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12871\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/15.png?resize=384%2C512\" alt=\"\" width=\"384\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/15.png?w=384&amp;ssl=1 384w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/15.png?resize=113%2C150&amp;ssl=1 113w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/15.png?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 384px) 100vw, 384px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>O bucat\u0103 recognoscibil\u0103 de juc\u0103torii de \u201eS.T.A.L.K.E.R.\u201d \u2013 \u201eCall of Pipyat\u201d a Fabricii Jupiter<\/em><\/p>\n<p>\u00cen apropiere de central\u0103, imediat dup\u0103 dezastru s-a dezvoltat o sta\u0163ie experimental\u0103 unde, da, din p\u0103cate, s-au testat pe animale efectele radia\u0163iilor. Sigur c\u0103 aceast\u0103 sta\u0163ie s-a \u00eenchis, \u015fi toate acele animale au fost lichidate (a\u015fadar nu, nu ve\u0163i \u00eent\u00e2lni mutan\u0163i \u00een zon\u0103), dar rezultatele studiilor au ar\u0103tat ca de la a 20-a c\u0103tre a 30-a genera\u0163ie, \u00een func\u0163ie de specie, de\u015fi animalele mai erau iradiate, acestea nu mai sufereau muta\u0163ii.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12872\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/16.png?resize=700%2C394\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/16.png?w=768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/16.png?resize=150%2C84&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/16.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><br \/>\n<em>Sta\u0163ia experimental\u0103 din apropierea ChNPP. <\/em><\/p>\n<p>Poate c\u0103 n-ar fi fost la fel de fain cu un alt ghid, mul\u0163umiri \u00eenc\u0103 o dat\u0103, Andrii Kryshtal!<br \/>\n\u00cen loc de concluzie, un scenariu posibil: la multe sute de ani dup\u0103 ce omenirea se va fi autodistrus, P\u0103m\u00e2ntul va fi \u00een via\u0163\u0103, bine merci!<\/p>\n<p>P.S.: La 5 zile dup\u0103 ce ne-am \u00eentors, mie \u00eemi coboar\u0103 un testicul, lui Nikky i se zbate ochiul st\u00e2ng. \u00cen rest suntem bine! \ud83d\ude00<\/p>\n<p>P.P.S.: Costuri estimate\/persoan\u0103:<br \/>\n&#8211; costul turului de 2 zile cu extra mese (cina din prima zi \u015fi pr\u00e2nzul de a doua zi): $319 sau \u20ac295;<br \/>\n&#8211; costul biletului de avion dus-\u00eentors cu Dniproavia, companie ucrainian\u0103: \u20ac168<br \/>\n&#8211; costul camerei de hotel\/noapte, la Hotel Lybid: \u20ac28 la care po\u0163i ad\u0103uga sau nu mic dejun care, ce s\u0103 vezi, \u00een bani ucrainieni cost\u0103 echivalentul a aproximativ 10 lei, iar \u00een euro cost\u0103 cam 27 de lei. A\u015fa c\u0103, nu achita\u0163i micul dejun \u00een avans, pl\u0103ti\u0163i direct la hotel \u00een moneda lor na\u0163ional\u0103.<br \/>\n&#8211; transportul de la Aeroportul Boryspil la Gara Central\u0103 din Kiev cu Sky Bus, firma de transport dedicat\u0103: \u20ac2,70<br \/>\n&#8211; transport de la Hotel Lybid la Aeroportul Boryspil cu taxiul comandat de recep\u0163ionera de la hotel: aproape \u20ac15\/3 persoane<br \/>\n&#8211; alte cheltuieli: suveniruri, mese \u00een ora\u015f, ap\u0103 \u015fi snackuri pentru zilele de tur: \u20ac40<br \/>\nFoarte rotund cu ce se mai pierde la schimbul valutar, costul\/persoan\u0103\/4 zile din care 2 de tur \u00een Zona de excluziune, este de \u20ac550.<\/p>\n<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12873\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/17.png?resize=700%2C394\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/17.png?w=768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/17.png?resize=150%2C84&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/17.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><br \/>\n<em>Vedere de sus a ora\u0219ului Pripyat.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Text \u0219i foto de Mihaela Dunga. Am decis s\u0103 merg la Cernob\u00eel c\u00e2nd so\u021bul meu Nikky mi-a spus c\u0103 este una dintre pu\u0163inele mari&#46;&#46;&#46;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":12853,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12852","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-spicy"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/1.png?fit=500%2C474&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12852","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=12852"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12852\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":17557,"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12852\/revisions\/17557"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/12853"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=12852"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=12852"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lorenalupu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=12852"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}